Julia Bradbury follows in the footsteps of legendary guidebook writer Alfred Wainwright by walking across the whole of northern England from the west to the east coast. This was Wainwright's last great venture and has become his greatest legacy - a beautifully simple proposition, linking three national parks that lie between the Irish and the North Sea. 36 years after its creation, Julia is off, through sunshine, wind and rain to cross the changing landscape, understand the history and meet the people that make up almost 200 miles of northern England. Julia sets off across the Eden Valley, a sparse land today but full of signs of ancient and uncertain human habitation. Kirkby Stephen is the one bustling modern outpost on this section, the launchpad for Julia's climb up and over the Pennines. The spine of England is a landmark on the walk, but during the wettest autumn in memory it is a major, boggy challenge.