Kirsty Wark and Simon Davis go beyond the guidebooks to get to the heart of modern Vienna. Kirsty meets celebrity entertainer Alfons Haider and art collector Francesca Von Hapsburg, who is married to the grandson of the last Hapsburg Emperor. Simon meets the eccentric godfather of shock art Hermin Nitsche and, in the home of the waltz, goes backstage at the local version of Strictly Come Dancing.