Julia Bradbury takes a series of walks following the old tracks, overgrown cuttings and ancient viaducts of Britain's lost rail empire. Julia walks along the stunning Mawddach estuary in north Wales. The area between Dolgellau and the coastal resort of Barmouth is one of the least visited parts of Snowdonia, but in the 1860s it received a great rush of holidaymakers, taking advantage of the new railway that connected the valley to the cities of England.